Captain Bob’s okay, but there was a fire on the Phoenix last night.

He was lying in his cabin after anchoring for the evening. The heater was running, as was the engine (to charge the batteries.) Dad was listening to a book on his laptop when his eyes started burning.

When he opened the door to his cabin to investigate, the salon was filled with black smoke. He tried to go back towards the engine, but the smoke was so nasty that he was driven back into his cabin.

He dressed, grabbed his laptop, and got out through the escape hatch over his bed. He tried to get aft to turn off the engine, but the smoke was billowing from the stern and he couldn’t get to the console. He also couldn’t get the dinghy down (it hangs off the stern.)

Instead he went over the side with his kayak, which is kept tied to the lifelines amidships. After getting off the Phoenix, he used his cell phone to call the Coast Guard.

While he was drifting alongside the Phoenix, the engine started whining, and then died entirely. Apparently, the cooling water hose had burnt through. Without cooling, the engine seized. The water unfortunately started filling the boat, but the automatic bilge pump kept the ship from sinking too quickly. The water probably had the positive effect of helping to douse the fire.

The Coast Guard came out, fished dad out of the water, and towed the Phoenix in to Myrtle Beach, South Carolina. The Fire Department examined the boat, turned off the seacock to the engine (thus stopping the flooding), and determined that the fire had started in an electrical conduit in the engine compartment. Dad got into a Super 8 Motel at around 2am yesterday.

His cell phone isn’t working because he didn’t bring the charger. If you want to call him with encouraging words, he’s at the Super 8 Myrtle Beach, 843-293-6100, room 417.

Coyote

Position N 35°54′.84 W 78°22′.24
Mileage 36.00 NM
Trip 632.02 NM

After spending the night at the Bridge Tender Village Marina, I got an early start. I can’t believe I went a whole day without going aground. Today I went through Myrtle Grove Sound and the Cape Fear River to Casino Creek. It is hard to find things to write about. It is always the same thing, pretty boring really.

I had a fairly good day, it wasn’t to cold. At 2:30 I found a place to anchor so I decided to stop early. After setting the anchor I made myself a good dinner. I found some summer squash in the frig. that Dan left so I cut two Yellow and one Green, then one onion and about 6 cloves of garlic. I sautéed it all in olive oil. It was outstanding. I also opened a can of whole berry cranberry sauce and warmed that up. Then I opened a bottle of wine, and had a dinner fit for a king.

After cleaning up I sat down with my glass of wine to listen to a recorded book. I had my noise canceling headset on and listening to Atlas Shrugged by Ayn Rand, when by some miracle I heard a commotion outside. I opened the door to look out and found two kayakers, one was in the water the other was yelling for help and trying to hold on to his friend while they were being swept off with the strong current. I can’t believe I heard them with all the hatches closed and listening to the book. Anyway by the time I got the dinghy in the water and the motor started they had been swept far down the river. By the time I reached them the man in the water could no longer feel his legs. I managed to pull him into the dinghy, and while the other man held on to to the dinghy I brought them back to there sailboat, which was anchored not far from me. the poor guy was froze, the water here is 52°. It doesn’t take long at that temp…

Love to all
ESP Kerri
Bob

Position N 34°12′.92 W 77°48′.92
Mileage 37.71 NM — 43.40 Land miles
Trip 596.02 NM

Today was a much better day, still cold, but bearable. I went aground twice today, once this morning and once this evening when I was trying to find a place to anchor. This is becoming a bad habit. Luckily so far I have been able to get myself off. I gave up trying to anchor and went back and took a slip for the night. I filled up on fuel and water, so I should be good for a while. I had three bridge openings today the first I missed by 15 min. because of the grounding so I had to wait 45 min. because they will only open on the hour.

I am noticing that the homes along the waterway are becoming much more luxurious, and many more are built of brick. I took a picture of one that was for sale, it was marked price reduced to $1,695,000 ” bargain”. I am also seeing some porpoises, so far I have seen 4 at different times and places. it seems strange to see these large mammals in such a small and shallow channel.

Love to all
ESP ED Happy birthday ED
Bob

Position N 35°57′.89 W 75°59′.45
Mileage 36.81 NM
Trip 558.31 NM

Today was so cold I froze my Arss off. As you can imagine I am not having a very good day, it’s a sell it day. Whenever I have a really bad day I think of selling the boat. I have been having allot of those lately. I keep hoping that things will get better, maybe it will get warmer, or I won’t go aground. I know I am supposed to be going South, but it seems that the ICW is constantly going West?? Every afternoon the sun is reflecting right into my eyes from the water.

I will be happy when Coyote gets back on board for many reasons, but mostly so he can take over the log. I never was very good at writing. If it wasn’t for spell checker I wouldn’t even attempt it.

It is now 6 PM and I am going to bed bundle up to keep warm and not get up until 7 or 8 in the morning.

Love to all
ESP My MOM
Bob

Position N 34°48′.34 W 76°41′.13
Mileage 32.29 NM
Trip 521.50 NM

I didn’t leave until 9 AM because of fog, and by 9:30 I had already gone aground. So far I have been lucky that I have been able to get myself off. As I entered the Neuse River the winds started to pick up from dead ahead. By 10:30 the winds had reached 30 knots gusting to 38 knots. By the time I reached Adams Creek I was already exhausted, and I still had another 10 miles before I could find a place to stop. I hate to do it, but I had to pay for dockage because I couldn’t find any place to anchor.

Today is one of those days I find it hard to push on, and wish I had never started. Hopefully by morning I will be rested and ready to go again.

Love to all
ESP Ron & Dan
Bob

Position N 35°12′.59 W 76°05′.82
Mileage 48.75 NM That is 56.05 land miles
Trip 489.21 NM

Happy Thanksgiving to everyone. Yesterday started with a 21.3 mile land cut called, Alligator River-Pungo River Canal. At ICW mile 125.9 I went under Wilkerson Highway Bridge, with only 64′ clearance. My mast is 63’6″ plus I have a rather tall light that I added to the top of the mast. I crept at idol speed an watched as the mast kept getting closer, when the the mast reached the bridge and started to go under I didn’t think it would make it, but the only thing that hit was the wire antenna for the VHF, and that bent as we went by then sprang back up. The light couldn’t have missed by more then 2″. One good thing is now I won’t be afraid of 65′ bridges, witch most fixed bridges are.

Once on the Pungo River and Pamlico River I was able to sail for about two hours. At mile 135.7 I made a wrong turn and ended in town of Belhaven before I realized I was going the wrong way, that set me back a bit. Next was the Goose Creek and Bay River mile 149.7 to mile 166.8. It was along this section that I read the channel markers wrong and went aground. It took me a while but I was able to back out and back on track. With no tide in this area to lift you I would hate to get really stuck.

At mile 155.2 I came to a 4 mile land cut that went under the Hobucken Highway Bridge, a 65′ fixed bridge, which I went under without hesitating. At mile 159.7 I came to a small cove on the right of the main channel and decided to anchor. I forgot to mention that I have started seeing Shrimp boats.

Today Thanksgiving Day I decided to stay put and relax. It’s raining and as I write this I am feeling very lonesome for home and the people there. I will be glad when I see everybody for our Christmas break. I will also be glad to have Ron back after that, as handling this boat is getting to be tiring for my old body.

Love to all
ESP to Andy from Pepre
Bob

Position N 35°40′.38 W 76°05′.82
Mileage 44.62 NM
Trip 440.46 NM

Left Mariners’ Wharf at 8:AM and immediately put out all sails, it was great to be sailing again. I sailed through the rest of the Pasquotank River, across Albemarle Sound, and into the Alligator River. I had another bridge opening today. It was a single-pivot swing, there are so many different kinds of bridges.

The scenery has bee very quit, crossing the Albemarle I couldn’t see land, and the Alligator is lined with barren trees standing in water lining both shores. There is no visible habitation. Tonight I am anchored in a small cove called Winn Bay. It is very small, and with the scenery, it reminds me of a scene in African Queen.

I am having trouble sending my logs out so when they do go out there will be more than one.

Love to all
ESP my brother Don
Bob

Position N 36°44′.01 W 76°17′.65
Mileage 19.19 NM
Trip 395.84 NM

At the end of the Dismal Swamp Canal the ICW joins the Pasquotank River. We followed this winding, twisting river through a few bridges”it seems so strange to have these bridges open just for me at my command” into Elizabeth City, NC. There we stoped at Mariners’ Wharf. There are no facilities here, but the slips are free for two days stay. There is an 89 year old gentleman named Fred Fearing here who assigns slips, and then invited all of us, there are 3 boats that came in, to a wine and cheese party at his house at 4PM. Apparently he does this every day, and has been doing it for twenty some years. He has been written about in many guide books.

Tonight I hosted a wine and cheese party on the Phoenix with Bert and Sharlatta Bobbins aboard Bonne Chance, and Kris ? a young man on a small ketch.

This afternoon I went to a marine store and found a new VHF antenna, and after the wine the two men hoisted me up the mast to replace the one that fell off.

Love to all
ESP Cuddle Bunny
Bob

Position N 36°50′.51 W 76°17′.65
Mileage 24.88 NM
Trip 376.65 NM

At 9:30 this morning I started my adventure down the ICW. After passing under the first railroad lift bridge that is normally up I came to the Jordan Highway bridge lift. I radioed the bridge tender who stoped traffic and lifted the bridge just for me, it was a first for me, and an awesome feeling. 3 miles father I caught up to the folks I meet last night. they and another boat were waiting for a double bridge to open, one traffic and one rail, both operated by the same bridge tender. Trains went by in one direction then the other so it took a while before they opened for us.

At mile 7.2 I came to a folk, one way was the Albemarle and Chesapeake Canal route, and the other was the Great Dismal Swamp Canal. I decided on the Dismal Swamp. The delay at the double bridge caused me to be 15 minutes late for the opening of the Deep Creek Lock. I had to wait 2 hrs. for the next opening. After entering the lock doors were closed and we were lifted 9 feet and let out the other side. That was also a first for me. After letting us boats out (there were two of us) the lock tender had to drive to the next highway bridge 1/2 mi. away to lift that for us, we got there before him.

The Dismal swamp is not really a swamp, it was just given that name by locals. Part of it was surveyed by George Washington as it crossed land he owned. It is a land cut 43 miles long. Tonight I am at mile 28, at the North Carolina visitor center.It serves both the highway and the Canal.

Love to all
ESP Lovely Melissa
Bob

Position N 36°50′.51 W 76°17′.89
Mileage 16.10 NM
Trip 353.55 NM
Motor hrs. 174

Today I entered Newport Harbor, what a busy place. There are all kinds of navel ships, I even saw four subs. Then there are all the container ships, oil ships, even ships delivering coal. One ship was lifted completely out of the water on some kind of barge. Ships are being worked on all along the harbor, even at night with lights, you can hear and smell the work going on.

In yesterday’s log that I fulfilled one of my goals, when I was younger I drove over the Chesapeake Bay bridge and tunnel. After going through the tunnels, I said someday I would like to go over them in my own boat, that was like 35 years ago, well yesterday at exactly 3:05 PM I went over one.

Tonight I have taken a slip in one of the marinas. I got fuel, water, did some laundry, and took a long hot shower. It’s nice to take a shower and leave the water running. On the boat you wet, soap up, rinse, all in about 3 min. not to use to much water.

This afternoon I took out my folding bike and went shopping. I restocked the food supply, and was able to find new drawer rails for the ones on the drawer under my bed that’s always jumping off track when the boat bounces around. I was also able to find a new toilet seat for the toilet in my head. It broke off in that bad storm of a few days ago, with me on it!, luckily nothing else got broken.

The marina I am staying in is at mile .04 of the ICW. The ICW starts here at mile marker 0.0 and goes to mile 1,095 in Miami. It is different from the open ocean as it is measured in land miles not nautical miles, so tomorrow I will be reporting in St miles.

LOVE to all
ESP Grandma Deb
Bob

Position N 37°01′.29 W 76°14′.55
Mileage 49.10 NM
Trip 335.67 NM

Well it was mind over body, I decided to keep going south. After talking to Ron, Barbara “cuddle bunny”, my brother Don, and my son Don and bouncing my thought’s off of them I felt that if I didn’t give this my best effort that I would be forever sorry. Plus if I ever get to were I can’t go any farther, I can always find a marina to store the boat for the winter. It would be same as storing it back home. It was my decision and mine alone, I am not counting on anyone to do anything they may not wish too. I do not want to put presser on anyone. Anyway after making the decision I opened one of Ron’s bottle of wine, Blackstone Winery’s California Merlot, I do not recommend it, it was a “mediocre merlot” but it helped me fall asleep.

This morning at 6AM the tide was high and I very slooly made my way out of the inlet I had come into from the storm on Wednesday. Once out I turned south and headed for Chesapeake Bay, and Norfolk, Virginia where the start of the Intracoastal Waterway “ICW” starts.

Tonight I am anchored just outside Norfolk, I will go in in the morning, find a marina for the night and go into town for supplies and do laundry, I am beginning to turn my shorts inside out and wearing them for the second time. Now I am going to take a nice hot shower, have dinner, finish the “mediocre merlot”, and go to bed.

Love to all
ESP My little Sister Connie
Bob

Position N 37°22.41 W 75°44.34
Mileage 38 NM
Trip 286.57 NM

Tuesday was as good as it gets, Wednesday on the other hand was a day from hell. It started out with 3′ to 4′ waves when I started out and went down hill from there, by noon the wind had built to 35 to 40 knots, and the waves from 12′ to 15′. I felt like I was in the “perfect storm” as I give the motor more gas to climb the waves and then fall of the back side and crash into the next wave sending tons of water flying into the air. Every once and awhile a huge wave would come at me from the side of the boat(or abeam)and looked like it would break right over the boat, but at the last minute the boat would go over on it’s side and then rite itself as the wave passed underneath. Twice waves came from behind and broke over the stern and filled the cockpit with water, some of it getting into companionway and down into the boat. I couldn’t leave the helm and put in the companionway door.

The autopilot was unable to handle the force of the waves and kept going off course, so I had to be at the helm all day, and do the navigation at the same time. By 3:30 I was so tired I was looking for some place to duck into for the night. Finally I found an inlet called Great Machipongo Inlet, made my way in “bottomed out a few times” and finally dropped the hook. I was so tired I couldn’t write my log, and that is why I’m writing today.

My brother Donald called to wake me at 5 AM as I hoped to go out on the high tide, but when he called the wind was still blowing at over 30 knots, so I decided to stay another day and try again tomorrow.

All this and troubles with the boat has given me second thoughts about continuing the trip. I must decide by morning because each day south means two days more to go back, it’s a tough decision. Ron can’t get back until around the 20th of December Which means I’ll be alone for another month.

My body tells me to turn around and go home, but my mind say’s if I go back I’ll hate myself afterwards. Who’s to know????

Love to all
ESP Lovely Carmella
Bob